Before The Meal

THE FREE LUNCH, or canapés

The expression "free lunch" originated in Victorian saloons —when immense platters of excellent cold meats, potato salad and cheeses were strategically placed along a bar to encourage the greater consumption of beer.

In those halcyon days, a nickel glass of beer assured the impecunious of as much food as he could tuck away in preparation for the next 24 hours.

Today's canapé tray is entirely different—due to rising costs, increased knowledge of calories, and so on. It may be no more than a well-ripened Camembert, a tin of smoked mussels or pate de foie gras with salty crackers—or there may be a special titbit.

There are three points to remember:

First: No more than two drinks should ever be served before dinner . . . and food (in the form of canapés, titbits or bouchees) should accompany the liquor. This is an absolute and positive rule among true gastronomes and it must not be broken! For one thing, there is little point in creating a gorgeous dinner for a group who have drunk too much to appreciate it.

Second: No matter how simple or few the components, a cocktail tray must look inviting . . . and black olives, crisp carrot sticks or bright radishes will fill innumerable chinks.


Third: The service of a special cocktail titbit may often gain an extra 15 minutes for the harassed chef to create the dinner masterpiece!